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Did you cut all that with 1 blade or 3?

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Pat

I've heard this b4. Can you really resaw with them? I saw some for about $10. I guess if you could get more than 10 slices off a rosewood block, you would be ahead of the RK.

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Pat

With 3 blades, When one is dirty (by resins) I put another one waiting to have the 3 to clean up. But at this day all of the three blades are still working without resharpening (not as well as the first day of course, but it works).

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Meat blade on my Hitachi resaw. Mahogany and adi.
I can't really say what would be better for a person doing it day in and day out. But for me I switch out blades all the time. And even though I have the 2 inch blades and the rk blade The three quarter-inch meat cutting blade is easy to install and I can leave it on and get some even curved cuts with it.


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Ken

Here's my saw
I forgot to say an important point. With the meat cutting blade I don't have to change the guides. There are special guides for the R king and the 2 inch blade. But the guide for narrow blades works well with the 3/4 inch meat blade. Plus the curve is very thin 0.022 inch


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Ken

I noticed that the gullets on my RK seem to load up, stopping the material. As soon as they clear, alway we go again as if like new. At least that's the only explanation I can come up with. I'm wondering if inadequate dust collection could be part of the problem.

I look forward to trying the Lennox CT.

M

In our case, we have a 5hp oneida on about an 8' duct run, so I sure hope that's not the problem..

Hmm, that sounds like it might be not enough tension on the blade. Did it feel like the wood was being pulled into the blade at all?

It's quite strange. It's happened on multiple billets aside from the bubinga, including walnut and mahogany. Basically, I'll push and nothing will happen, then it'll cut 3-4" in a blink of an eye, gang up, stop moving through/bounce...it's a bit disconcerting to say the least.

The blade seems very tight...

Check the thrust bearing clearance behind the blade. If the gap is too much, it can do that. About the thickness of a piece of paper is about right.

Grant

And, yes, ++++ on the Woodmaster CT and Spectrum Supply

I use a Canadian tire bill...

Just don't use a Canadian dollar. Might be a little thin.

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Pat

Ha ha! Rub it in...

And I have been the recipient of some of those great sets, Bob! I think I bought about 6 sets from you last year so I can attest to how well your setup works. I hope to get to build a few guitars from some of those sets this year.

Thanks!
David

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David

David Falkner - Woodworking YouTube channel and Instagram
Romans 3:23

I realize that's where u get them. I was looking for blade width and TPI you think would work on an 18" jet, 3hp motor

I got a chance to talk with Bob on the phone. For resaw, he uses the Woodmaster CT. On my saw, (Jet 18", 137" blade), that would cost about $115. For general purpose cutting (use of a 3/8" blade), he suggested the Trimaster. The only selection was 0.032" kerf, 3 TPI. This blade rings in at $224.

Can anyone explain this to me? Seems high for a small blade. Is it worth it? OR should I consider something else?

Mike

Mike I forgot how much those Tri Masters cost. Definitely not worth it for your use. Other options are the Bi-Metal blades and or the carbon steel blades. Just keep in mind... more TPI = smoother but slower cut less TPI = rougher but faster cut.
We use a 6 TPI x 1/4" carbon steel for rough cutting neck blanks. The Bi-Metal blades are in the $50-$75 range and last a long time.

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Ah. Much better. I assume Lenox? I'll look at those. I do want higher TPI than 3. As I said, mostly used for brace wood cutting, back and top and sides cutting. And miscellaneous stuff. Andy does my necks on CNC, so no need there.

Mike,

Lenox Diemaster 3/8 10/14 TPI is a great general purpose blade if you can stand slower feed rates. Lasts much longer than Carbon and cost is not so dear as carbide.
If it is just thin plates and Spruce you want to cut, carbon steel is a pretty good choice

-jd

Thank you. I'll check that out. Feed rate is not an issue. Clean cut is. Long lasting is too.

If those three are your priorities, you want the CT with lower TPI. If feed rate is an issue, with clean cut being a concession, then the Woodmaster B (bi-metal) is a beast. I use this now for dimensioning down lumber, and the CT for resawing. Don't read TOO much into that, until I got the CT, the B was my end game blade, better than the 3" Stellite on the Hitachi.

I have a strange deja vu feeling I posted this here, but anyway, here's a CT in action. Again, slower than a B, but I have time. Not sure how to embed the vid.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=HEPCP1IxRBw

Well, for resaw, I'm getting the wood master ct, 1" blade, 1.3 TPI. I don't resaw hardwood billets for back and side sets, but I do a bit of other hardwood resaw. The 3/8" blade to me is an all-purpose utility blade. Prolly go bimetal.